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  • September1st

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    A version of this article appeared in the Times Eureka magazine

    It’s said that you never really learn to swear until you learn to drive. Indeed, I’ve only ever heard my father say the word ‘fuck’ twice: once after being cut up by a Volvo on the main road out of Uttoxeter, the other when he emerged from the shower and was leapt on by a litter of newly born kittens who had mistaken a piece of his anatomy for a play-thing.

    It seems that as soon as we take the wheel we lose almost any ability to be forgiving or think kindly of our fellow auto-nauts. Even the Dalai Lama, it is rumoured, once flipped the V’s at a motorbike courier – although in his defence this was probably an emotional reaction having just been cheated out of a parking space by a sneeringly triumphant Michael Palin.

    The growl of the engine stirs a primeval desire for confrontation. The road is a battlefield, the family saloon a chariot of righteousness and it’s dangerous to break these well-understood rules of engagement. Once, at some traffic lights, I foolishly wound down my window to apologise to the van driver I had just troubled with a lane change that was, shall we say, ambitious. He had no idea what to do. My apology left him literally dumfounded, so much so that he forgot to move off when the lights changed and someone ran into the back of him.

    Electric cars therefore offer us only danger. Without the guttural roar of the internal combustion engine or the smell of oil and gasoline (that heady aroma known as Eau de Clarkson) an unsuspected side effect of ‘going electric’ may be that the driving public are nudged into a politer and more genteel mindset – an erosion of one of our culture’s cornerstone pleasures, i.e. the unspoken permission to regard ourselves as completely superior to everyone else (also called ‘doing a Piers Morgan’). And there’s physical peril too. The quietness of electric cars has led to worries that pedestrians and cyclists might not hear them coming (something viewers of Top Gear may consider an advantage) with calls from the EU to provide EV’s with an external sound system that mimics the noises made by petrol vehicles – the motoring world’s equivalent of Take That doing a Black Sabbath cover. There is a terrible fear among petrol-heads that electric cars will dial down the take-no-prisoners joy of ‘real’ driving to the level of playing Scalextric – that owning a hybrid or electric car will somehow infantilise us (like putting on a nappy, or going into politics).

    But perhaps they can trade one game of one-upmanship for another, that of The Righteous Green? An electric car silently mocks the neighbour’s gas-guzzling four-by-four. To paraphrase Oscar Wilde, fossil-fuel powered cars won’t become obsolete because they are evil, only when they become vulgar. How flaccid and unseemly the hulking turd of next door’s BMW X-5 might appear when compared to the nippy new generation of e-vehicles. Or what about enjoying some financial smugness? How will you feel telling your rival that while they spent £80 on a tank of BPs finest lagoon-raping hydrocarbon gloop you can get the same mileage for £3.50 (all generated via the new solar panels on your roof of course). But is it enough? Are we trading in a grand and long-cherished arena of fierce mutual contempt only to replace it with tepid forums for exercising mild disdain? Surely quoting energy efficiency figures can never be as satisfying as the petrol-driven joy of questioning both the intellect and sexual practices of our fellow drivers? Damn it! I don’t want an Apple i-car, I want my motor made by the devil himself – and I reserve the right to drive it with all the social grace of Michael Winner.

    This is why I lobbied, as one of the guest drivers of this year’s Oxford to London eco-rally, to be behind the wheel of a Tesla Roadster, the electric car that even Jeremy Clarkson described as ‘biblically quick’. At £92,000, and modelled on the Lotus Elise, it is cock-rocking face of electric motoring that allows me to offset my green tendencies coming, as it does, with all the trappings of conspicuous consumption typical of the complete banker. It could also be the new face of car-as-misogyny-powered-chick-magnet, a car that says, ‘Hey honey, not only am I stupidly rich, I also really care about the planet.’ In fact I’m sure it won’t be long before enterprising heavy-walleted banking types, in an attempt to look planet-friendly, are retro-fitting their hybrids and e-cars with petrol engines while no-one is looking, echoing the green-wash of many of their employers. As always, when someone touts their green credentials it’s a good idea to check under the hood.

  • April6th

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    My last night in New York was very New York. I meet up with Adrian to grab some beers after he gets off work and end up staying out past 3am. It’s good to spend a solid evening with him, making a new friend, getting down to swapping stories about our families, dreams, hopes, aspirations. One thing to say about Adrian Mukasa is that he has the gift of the gab. There isn’t a pretty girl in New York he can’t strike up a conversation with, which means we both end up on top of somewhere called Bar 13 drinking with students.

    It’s completely bizarre. This is the sort of crowd I would never have seen in my own student days – the ‘take lots of drugs because we haven’t worked out what to do with out brains yet’ crowd. They’re smart, well-spoken, sparky and out to get completely caned. The resident drug-dealer is a forensic psychologist. I’m a curio here and have a number of conversations with students who approach me in various stages of cognitive disarray. I don’t whether it’s because I’ve spent a year traveling and meeting a wide range of thinkers, but I’m not uncomfortable, which I would have expected to be. (I’ve always found drugs very, well, icky). Somehow I’ve switched into travelogue-observer mode. I’m interested in what’s going on, but detached from it, which is a strangely nice feeling. I feel like I’ve stepped into one scene of a play, whose end I will never see. Suddenly I’m glad I’m older. Really glad.

    Today I meet with my US editor Rachel Holtzman, ‘my’ promotion and publicity team at Penguin (Lisa, Beth and Jessica) as well as one of the head honcho’s in Penguin, publisher Bill Shinker. They’re lovely people, sparky, interested, interesting and, I’m glad to report, keen on the book. We have a long, good-natured discussion and it feels funny to think this group of people will be promoting my work. I wish I’d taken them all chocolates. Bill tells me my publication date, 5th February 2011 – which means around that time I’ll be back in the states doing heavy rotation on publicity, which I’m looking forward to.

    After the meeting I head to Washington DC on the train. Washington is a kind of a culture shock out of New York. It’s clean, has a modern metro (with sensible maps) and the people seem, well, shiny. Beyond that of course there is the city’s famous architecture and monuments and I spend a barmy evening wandering to the White House, the Washington Monument and the Lincoln Memorial, feeling like a proper tourist. But I’m not here for tourism, I’m here because tomorrow I’m to meet someone who helped invent something extraordinary…

  • March30th

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    I arrive in New York after a long and slow train from Boston to Penn Station (surely a place specifically designed to confuse foreign travelers?) The constant rains have hit the trains hard and I was lucky to make it. (The rain kept coming putting large parts of the east coast under water and the service was later suspended due to flooding.) The delays mean I hit the New York rush hour carrying my luggage, which is about as much fun as gallstones. I make it to Lounge 47 in Long Island City to meet gent and scholar Adrian Mukasa, the wise-cracking videographer I met in this bar during my last visit and who has generously found me an apartment in Queens for my stay. We catch up over some beers before I head to the apartment. It’s blissfully quiet, which is just about the most important thing anywhere I sleep needs to be (and completely unlike my flat in London which is assailed from all sides by the lives and loves of my neighbours).

    Today I meet my editor at Penguin Avery, the quietly formidable Rachel Holtzman. We have lunch at the swanky Marea restaurant bordering Central Park. Rachel has a kind of steely-softness that New York specialises in. She’s got a kind heart, but I suspect suffers fools about as gladly as the Vatican would respond to public conversion to catholicism by Gary Glitter right now. I’m glad to hear she’s happy with the four chapters I’ve delivered so far, and that the publicity and sales people at Penguin have responded well to the book (indeed, I’m to meet them, and the publisher Bill next Tuesday). Talking to Rachel also helps me begin to pull together some ideas about how the book’s narrative will play out. Most exciting however is that she’s brought a mock up of a front cover, and it’s brilliant. It’s simple but has a New Yorker kind of vibe. As soon as it’s finalised (we discussed a few tweaks) I hope to post it up here.

    I spend the afternoon in the main branch of the New York public library preparing for tomorrow’s interview with Chris Anderson, CEO of the mighty TED talks. I’m hoping Chris will help me pull together some of the threads and trends I’ve been battling with, in short, to help me make sense of everything. Given that the TED talks are a nexus for the presentation and discussion of new ideas and ways of seeing the world Chris is probably in the top ten people assailed by the most new ideas on a regular basis on the planet – and so, I hope, has managed to develop a way of bringing them all together into a coherent world view, or (more likely), a coherent attitude to approaching the future.

    After all, on one side you have James Lovelock who says, there’s no way to save the planet and on the other you have Ray Kurzweil who, as I reported in a recent post, says ‘Malthusian concerns’ about us using up the world’s resources are facile because they assume nothing in technology changes (i.e. we can engineer ourselves out of the climate crisis – and indeed just about anything else we care to think of). Meanwhile, in the middle you have eco-pragmatists like Stewart Brand (who I hope to interview in a couple of weeks) whose Whole Earth Discipline is described as ‘an eco-pragmatist manifesto’. (You can see Stewart talk about ‘four environmental heresis’ here.

    Tomorrow’s going to be an interesting day…

  • October19th

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    I didn’t get my interview with the president today, and Paul, the PR liaison is sounding increasingly apologetic and uncertain. “I’m so sorry,” he says. “None of us expected the reaction to the cabinet meeting to be so huge, the president is totally full up”. It’s true that underwater event has generated unprecedented levels of exposure for Nasheed. I’ve received e-mails from excited friends around the globe who’ve seen footage on their news bulletins or read reports in their national papers. “It’s so great you’re getting to interview the president!” writes one friend excitedly, and I feel a knot in my stomach. I’m getting a very bad feeling about all this.

    To distract myself I decide to walk the perimeter of Malé. It’s a view of the Maldives few visitors ever see, and it’s revealing. As I reach the west shore I see fires burning on the horizon. Plumes of thick smoke create a dirty smudge that reaches up to the clouds. These are the Fires of Thilafushi – which sounds like the title of a romantic novel, but actually betray the location of the least attractive island in the nation (and arguably the world).

    Fires of Thilafushi

    Fires of Thilafushi

    Thilafushi is over 120 acres of mostly landfill, an artificial island built to deal with the prodigious amounts of refuse from the capital and neighbouring islands, as well as and some of the 3.5 kilograms of rubbish generated on average, by each tourist every single day. I see a string of industrial-looking boats, carrying four loaded rubbish trucks each, leaving Malé for the 6km trip to the island.

    These boats are rubbish

    These boats are rubbish

    Built to solve a problem, Thilafushi is causing a few of its own. Simply put, it can’t handle the amount of rubbish it’s being sent. The operation has long since abandoned digging pits – the volume of waste has simply become too great to cover. Instead, Thilafushi (or ‘trash island’ as the locals call it) has been slowly expanding as some the 330 tonnes of rubbish it receives daily is loaded onto the island and into the lagoons around it. The size of the  operation is perhaps  best demonstrated by the fact the island  now has a café, a restaurant, two mosques, and its own police station. In fact the Maldives has so much rubbish it is exporting it. Ships that bring vegetables from India return home with crushed cans, metals and cardboard. Besides the logistical problem of handling all that waste there are now concerns that toxic heavy metals such as mercury, lead and cadmium are leaching into the sea from the island, and posing a threat to the marine eco-system.

    “This is the scariest part,” says local environmentalist Ali Rilwan in an interview with the Dhivehi Observer.  “Unlike a landfill, this is a lagoon fill. It is a landfill in liquid form and so it absorbs these chemicals much more easily.”

    I’ve also been shocked to find out that the Maldives, including all the resorts, dumps its raw sewage into the ocean. As a nation, the Maldives needs some serious toilet training.

    I continue my walk to the north shore and find lines of oil trucks.

    Fossil fuel cavalcade

    Fossil fuel cavalcade

    The smell of diesel is thick in the air as boat owners queue up to fill their engines with fuel. Further down the road I find the capital’s power plant, happily expelling carbon into the atmosphere.

    Male Power Plant - Carbon Positive

    Malé Power Plant - Carbon Positive

    According to the CIA yearbook the country imports the equivalent of 5,490 barrels of oil a day, highlighting the challenge Nasheed has in committing his country to carbon neutrality.

    But the new president seems to be onto it with typical verve. Within a month of me leaving the islands he announces a deal with General Electric to build a £160M offshore wind farm comprising 30 large turbines and delivering power via a network underwater cables. It’s estimated the plant will provide 40% of the nation’s electricity and reduce its carbon emissions by 25%,

    I also find out that the new administration is tackling the rubbish problem too, having established the Waste Management Corporation with a mandate of collecting and processing all waste in the nation in an environmentally friendly manner.

    Such moves should begin to answer those critics of Nasheed who say he’s all about PR stunts (like Saturday’s cabinet meeting) but light on action. It’s a popular refrain amongst the Maldivians I’ve spoken to so far on the streets of the capital – there’s a general feeling that the new president is a good thing, but it’s all about delivery now. His critics include the German owner of the Thai restaurant where I have lunch. Upon realising I’m a writer he cannot wait to tell me his views on the new regime insisting, I’m surprised to hear, that things were better under Gayoom’s dictatorship. “This country isn’t ready for democracy,” he tells me, “The don’t know how to handle it”. He goes on to warn me that the local currency is worthless and I shouldn’t use it, which explains why he prefers you to settle his bill in US dollars – before giving you your change in Maldivian Rufiyaa.

    My final stop is an artificial beach on the capital’s East side. It’s deserted – a forlorn curio. Can it be popular when a boat ride away are some of the finest beaches anywhere on the planet? I sit for a while trying not to worry about the fact I’ve still heard nothing about my interview. Tomorrow is my last full day in Malé. If I don’t speak to the president then I’ll probably not get to talk to him at all…

  • October16th

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    I’m in Dubai airport on the way to the Maldives to meet President Mohammed Nasheed and attend an underwater cabinet meeting (which is not a sentence I ever thought I’d write). I don’t understand airports. They are a potential melting pot of people from all countries and cultures and yet they are some of the simultaneously dullest and most alienating places on the planet, full of naff shops and lacklustre restaurants. Dubai airport is like a cross between Walmart and the rib cage of some deceased leviathan. As Douglas Adams once wrote “It’s no coincidence that in no known language does the phrase ‘As pretty as an airport’ appear. Airports are ugly. Some are very ugly. Some attain a degree of ugliness that can only be the result of a special effort.”. I’d call Dubai airport ‘medium ugly’. It’s not even got the ambition to really take ugly and make it it’s own.

    I don’t want to buy a raffle ticket for a car. I don’t want to buy overpriced (yet ‘duty free’) sunglasses or perfume. I have no need for an 8-pack of Toblerone, or enough cigarettes to kill a dinosaur. I would like a space that encourages meetings between travelers. International airports could be a force for cultural understanding, or places that showcase the best of their host nations. Instead they seem to separate us from one another and suggest that the country outside has the lowest of aspirations. ‘Welcome to our nation, would you like a bumper pack of M&M’s?’

    I do hope that future spaceports (which I’ll cover in the chapter ‘Spacestation Hilton’) learn not to emulate this worldwide virus of soul destroying termini. Author Anthony Price summed it up when he wrote the devil himself has probably redesigned Hell in the light of information gained from observing airport design. Any second now I expect to hear the announcement “Paging passenger Stevenson. This is the last call for your soul. Your soul is now departing from gate 7.”

    Right I’m off to catch a plane.

  • September27th

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    I’m in the UK, finally back home after flying in early morning yesterday and going straight to Oxfordshire to attend the wedding of friend (and co-director of ReAgency) Quentin Cooper to his (now) wife Suba.

    The flight turns out to be more inspirational than I might have expected. By luck I find myself sitting next to Imran, who’s returning to the UK after a week’s training in working with Autistic children. Imran radiates positive vibes and practical optimism, which is all the more surprising when he tells me some of his life story. As a Pakistani Muslim who fell in love with an Indian Catholic, he was ostracised by his entire community. His family won’t speak to him. “It was complete rejection,” says Imran. “I mean, I lost everything”. The couple have two daughters, the youngest of whom was born with autism (hence his trip to the States). You might expect someone facing the twin challenges of cultural abandonment and a child with developmental problems to be rather serious. Imran by contrast almost exudes light. I don’t get the feeling this is over-compensation, a contrived cheery demeanour that seeks to reject or not look at what has happened. More that these experiences have helped him find the essence of who he is. He just seems to embody himself without artifice, sacrifice or apology.

    Both of us find the muffin that comes with breakfast hilarious, made as it is by US food supplier Otis Spunkmeyer. I kid you not.

    Questionable taste

    Questionable taste

    Before parting we agree to meet up sometime back in London. I’m looking forward to that. Imran is as inspirational as any of the ‘great thinkers’ I’ve been meeting.

    After touching down at Heathrow I head not home, but north to Quentin and Suba’s wedding, via the Aylesbury Holiday Inn. I eat a lunch that reminds me of something Frank Zappa once said before heading over to the nuptials.

    There’s a certain cachet to saying you’ve just ‘flown in from New York’, especially at a wedding – which makes up for the fact you feel jetlagged and jaded. I think I managed to pull off an acceptable appearance, with the help of not insubstantial amounts of champagne, and I met some lovely people, including the incomparable Vivienne Parry (something of a science presenting deity), Mai Davies (who you’ll know if you watch TV in Wales) and uber-music journalist Mark Ellen (the man who set up both Word and ‘Q’ magazines and presented the Old Grey Whistle test). I like weddings. Everyone looks their best and most people are usually in a good mood.

    I finally made it home this morning to a pile of junk mail and brain full of new ideas. It’s fair to say the world doesn’t look the same anymore. When I started this project I thought it was going to be a journey to understand how the science happening now will impact on my future. What I have found out so far has blown my mind. In fact I’ve got used to having my mind blown. But that science is only half the story.

    In the very early stages of researching this book I met with a futurist called Stephen Aguilar-Milan, a key player in the European chapter of the World Future Society. He told me that there were two historical ways of looking at the future. “One way is to say that technology leads society,” he said. “This is the American model of futurism that says technology drives societal change”. The other ‘European’ perspective is that society leads technology. “This argues that we create the technologies that society demands.” But there’s a third model. “This is the Asian school of futurism. That actually it is our values that lead both society and technology”. There’s something happening at the back of mind that I can’t quite put my finger on, but I know it’s going to be important to the book. It has something to do with values, but that’s not all of it. I think it’s something to do with attitude…